tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post7849804779743374500..comments2024-02-24T14:55:01.412-08:00Comments on sallieoh: on sleevessallie oleta barbeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-40228597726858046452013-04-13T09:08:20.500-07:002013-04-13T09:08:20.500-07:00love the illustrations. I bought a vintage pattern...love the illustrations. I bought a vintage pattern for nightgown and dressing gown; i made a toile out of muslin, and am glad I did that. Much as i love June Carter's style, it isn't my style. And those fabulous 1970's puffed sleeves make me more than a bit nervous. So down with come the sleeve heads. thanks.katicakesnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-43711940657770985532012-01-26T06:47:14.989-08:002012-01-26T06:47:14.989-08:00Yay!! Pattermaking-book-reading-twins!
I, however...Yay!! Pattermaking-book-reading-twins! <br />I, however, do not envy you trying to cram that book into a library checkout time span. Perhaps a multiple checkout? <br /><br />Thanks Rachel :)sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-40887987011162858842012-01-25T20:56:19.236-08:002012-01-25T20:56:19.236-08:00This is kind of random, but I'm SO... vicariou...This is kind of random, but I'm SO... vicariously?... excited for you having got Patternmaking for Fashion Design for Christmas! I just got it from the library (ugh, time to read an 800 page textbook before it's due back). Hooray pattermaking-book-reading-twins!<br /><br />Your red jacket turned out lovely. Such devotion, and with such great results!Rachel W.http://darling-autodidact.blogspot.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-65955884518739370392012-01-16T10:12:25.933-08:002012-01-16T10:12:25.933-08:00@ Amy - yes, I think cap ease might be the devil! ...@ Amy - yes, I think cap ease might be the devil! I suggest you read the article Katy recommended in the comments - it's definitely making me think about how I will treat my sleeve caps in the future...sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-33782330943552063052012-01-14T09:03:39.970-08:002012-01-14T09:03:39.970-08:00I love your illustrations! It took me about three ...I love your illustrations! It took me about three months to make Colette Patterns Lady Grey because I was working on the sleeve cap ease in a two-piece sleeve (and then had to redraft the lining, ugh), much like you've done here. I've a lot to learn but the sleeve looked much better in the end. For some reason cap ease drives me bonky. How's the jacket coming along?Amyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00404449004824638306noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-1193990089443733032012-01-14T07:54:49.382-08:002012-01-14T07:54:49.382-08:00@ Katy - Thanks for the article! I've never re...@ Katy - Thanks for the article! I've never read that - but it absolutely makes sense. Totally enlightening! But now what to do with this information??sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-65615280723826213422012-01-14T04:07:19.501-08:002012-01-14T04:07:19.501-08:00This is very interesting. Thank you for the infor...This is very interesting. Thank you for the information. Have you read this article on the subject?<br /><br />http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sleeve_cap_ease_is_bogus/Katyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04652602198760195318noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-33216205067653929172012-01-11T08:46:47.776-08:002012-01-11T08:46:47.776-08:00VERY informative! Thanks for the update and mania...VERY informative! Thanks for the update and maniacal bird/scissors illustrations!Katiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16681554541876791418noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-53737672580037091242012-01-11T08:27:55.836-08:002012-01-11T08:27:55.836-08:00@ Bibliophile - thanks for the heads up on the boo...@ Bibliophile - thanks for the heads up on the book! I am definitely looking forward to diving in. Also - thanks for the clarification about where to measure - yes, I always measure at the seamline rather than the outer edge of the fabric - I'm seeing now perhaps my little drawings are more confusing than clarifying!! ha!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-17050085253027987782012-01-10T23:51:01.614-08:002012-01-10T23:51:01.614-08:00I have the Helen Armstrong book and it's great...I have the Helen Armstrong book and it's great, really, especially the trousers section, which even gives sewing instructions, something that doesn't normally get covered in the book. I will warn you though that there are quite a few printing mistakes, which can be a bit tricky when you're half way through drafting something, but nothing that can't be worked out by yourself thankfully. Also because the book was 1st drafted in the eighties, some of the examples used are somewhat dated, so just watch out for low armholes and baggy upper silhouettes on some of the suggested blocks/slopers. But please dive in and enjoy, it's great fun and very addictive. <br /><br />That's a great explanation of decreasing the cap size and I'm sure someday I'll need to use it on a pattern but I mostly have to increase the width up there, to encompass my sausage like upper arms! With regard to the measurement of the cap and sleeve, I was taught to measure at the seam line, not the outer line of the fabric where the pieces actually fit together You'll find the patterns in the Helen Armstrong are drafted without seam allowances, which makes measuring easier. <br /><br />Good luck and enjoyBibliophilehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16901081383649702721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-5029673272959150572012-01-10T12:27:34.019-08:002012-01-10T12:27:34.019-08:00Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing this!Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing this!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-15380525287515306502012-01-10T12:06:29.095-08:002012-01-10T12:06:29.095-08:00Hey Lizz! So glad this is of help to someone else!...Hey Lizz! So glad this is of help to someone else!<br /><br />for clarification - you measure from point to point on the sleeve cap (so just around the curvy part - not down into the straight part)<br /><br />and yes - you can use this alteration to get rid on the puff sleeve - just make sure you leave enough ease for the shoulder - that should be about 1 1/4" to 1 3/4" (depending on fabric, size, etc.)<br /><br />alternately - you would spread the wing-y bits if you wanted to add puffs to your sleeve pattern that doesn't have them.<br /><br />making the sleeve cap smaller is actually very easy - once i changed the pattern i just laid it over the fabric i already cut for my (larger) sleeve and re-traced the sewing lines. i didn't cut the extra fabric off until the sleeves were sewn in - just in case!<br /><br />sorry for the long reply!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-49284461639612451872012-01-10T11:57:29.778-08:002012-01-10T11:57:29.778-08:00What a timely post. I've been thinking about s...What a timely post. I've been thinking about sleeves in general lately. This is a stupid question but for clarification are you measuring for ease starting at the base of the sleeve cap and working your way around to the other side? So say the pattern I'm working with a pattern that has a puff detail but I don't want it, can I use this alteration to get rid of that gathering?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com