tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post2687504854966243674..comments2024-02-24T14:55:01.412-08:00Comments on sallieoh: sloping and revelrysallie oleta barbeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-91789159667316377302012-02-17T12:54:14.426-08:002012-02-17T12:54:14.426-08:00Haha! I was going to mention biker rally! Actually...Haha! I was going to mention biker rally! Actually this hasn't been nearly as bad as I thought it would be (I tend to be a tad dramatic ;) Welcome to the blog - thanks for stopping by! I get really excited when fellow Galvestonians stop by to say hi!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-56775086898247197382012-02-17T12:52:25.175-08:002012-02-17T12:52:25.175-08:00Thank You Lizz! That is the sort of inspiration I ...Thank You Lizz! That is the sort of inspiration I need to keep working on my sloper! I'll admit that the fitting issues are definitely bogging me down. Good eye on the bust point - side waist fold - I definitely never would have picked up on that (probably because all my clothes have it!) I really appreciate your fitting assessment and will be putting a lot of these changes into effect!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-60970555941343356632012-02-16T14:55:08.712-08:002012-02-16T14:55:08.712-08:00Hi! I stumbled onto your blog from Pinterest. It w...Hi! I stumbled onto your blog from Pinterest. It was really cool to see that you're in Galveston, too. This year is my first year that I'm not partaking in Mardi Gras and am very happy about that. To be honest, if you made it through Biker Rally, this will be a breeze.HannahPhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12194563392344010074noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-6180230417201319102012-02-15T12:56:35.756-08:002012-02-15T12:56:35.756-08:00sallie, it *is* the gateway to sewing awesomeness....sallie, it *is* the gateway to sewing awesomeness. i made a sloper with kenneth king over the summer, and while it took some getting used to, the end results have been pretty life-changing, sewing-wise. it's amazing what i suddenly find myself able to do and understand now that i've been using my sloper--first to modify existing patterns, and now to draft new ones.<br /><br />a good resource for existing patterns, if you manage to get a good result with your sloper, is lynda maynard's e-book. good luck!!!puuhttp://puusdooroftime.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-63113918835459169962012-02-15T09:06:23.870-08:002012-02-15T09:06:23.870-08:00I'm so behind on my reader and am just now rea...I'm so behind on my reader and am just now reading this. I love my sloper - I mostly use it to draft new patterns and it's my most prized sewing possession. I have to commend you though - I can't imagine trying to fit one on my own. <br />Here's what I'm seeing - mind you, I'm no expert and struggle with fitting on my own. I would put a pin through the 1/4" that you've pinched out of the shoulder - this will change the back as well as the front and will be easier to assess with your hands at your side. I can see tiny fold stemming from the front bottom side to the dart apex. Pinch this out and manipulate it into the dart. Tie a piece of lingerie elastic around your waistline because I think you'll have length adjustments to do in the back (too long) as well as the front (appears short). You may also find that the back length is fine but the "hem" is too tight while the rest of the lower torso is too loose. The back shoulders are too wide and it's possible that the base of the armhole is high but I can't get a good read on that through pictures. <br />Keep going because out of all the sewists I know, I think you would get the most use out of a solid sloper.Lizzhttp://agoodwardrobe.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-45609830630982820362012-02-14T08:37:06.960-08:002012-02-14T08:37:06.960-08:00Thank you A.J.A! I'm hoping all this finnicky ...Thank you A.J.A! I'm hoping all this finnicky fitting will be all worth it when it comes time to fit future projects. And hopefully I can try my hand at a bit of drafting while I'm at it :)sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-46580925252601753532012-02-14T08:35:14.965-08:002012-02-14T08:35:14.965-08:00I know! I love the idea of using a basic sloper to...I know! I love the idea of using a basic sloper to draft any design I might dream up! I blame this urge on my new pattern drafting book which has me convinced that a good fitting sloper is like the gateway to sewing awesomeness! <br /><br />If you ever get around to making your sloper - best of luck!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-63272608761817327842012-02-14T08:31:55.931-08:002012-02-14T08:31:55.931-08:00Thanks Amy! I'm hoping this sloper business wi...Thanks Amy! I'm hoping this sloper business will be useful somehow. I like the idea that it could help me cut down on my muslin making time. <br /><br />I was also wondering if I would have to continually make slopers as my body changes. Gah! That prospect sounds dreadful!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-83586070242216132282012-02-14T07:02:32.326-08:002012-02-14T07:02:32.326-08:00I just did this, although I am sure you will do it...I just did this, although I am sure you will do it better than I did. It does look like the back is too long. I had some major wrinkling that magically disappeared when I trimmed the length on my bodice. I used a basic bodice pattern that I just tweaked. It took a good chunk of two days, but it was very, very worth it once I got close to something that fit. I, too, was interested in the designing and drafting aspect, but I have only so far used it to fit two garments, and it is a revelation! I measure a 36 bust, but I always swim in them, and placing a pattern on top of the sloper showed exactly where by adjustments need to be made. Check out this article http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4498/the-merits-of-a-basic-fitting-pattern/page/all<br />Charge on! You'll be very glad you did. I made up a dress so fast the other day, and it fits well! I put the pattern on the sloper, and made a pinch, fold, etc, and then put tracing paper on top. Huge time saver.<br />Oh, and drat those blasted kids!A.J.A.https://www.blogger.com/profile/05989531542525210531noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-41366439978158757322012-02-13T15:11:29.488-08:002012-02-13T15:11:29.488-08:00I love the idea of a sloper and have just bought A...I love the idea of a sloper and have just bought Adele P. Margolis's "Make your own dress patterns" which shows how to modify a basic sloper into... well, practically anything really. ;) Haven't started on the sloper yet, though.<br />My experience with fitting involves mostly pinching out wrinkles, but I agree that a swayback adjustment is probably the one you want. Good luck with your sloper!Alessahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16605755512224178329noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-11990626552778853602012-02-13T08:36:26.566-08:002012-02-13T08:36:26.566-08:00We took a holiday in New Orleans at the beginning ...We took a holiday in New Orleans at the beginning of February one year, before the official started... and even then it was nonstop outside our hotel room. I was wondering the same thing! (What do these people do the rest of the year?!) Although the clown in black with candy canes was interesting.<br /><br />I also drafted a bunch of slopers but never got around to sewing them. I got a non-sewing friend to take an hour (two) out of her life for me and do all the measurements and she was so precise! I think where I am at with it is that I want to have some basic blocks (or as other sewinas call them, tnts). Like you now have a pair of trousers--a block that fits you and which you can make other pants drafts from. I do use my bodice sloper pattern to check lengths on other patterns. I line it up at the center front and shoulder line and then I can get an idea of how much ease is in a pattern and it's especially helpful with length, which never changes. (Ahem, width seems to change with food.) But I'm starting to use my pattern drafting books more and more to add things to patterns I already have. Maybe part of the benefit in sloping is just learning to train the eye.<br /><br />I'd agree with the others about taking out some length in the back. And maybe letting the waist out just a smidge so it doesn't pull?Amyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00404449004824638306noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-84877249872082562162012-02-12T16:49:07.278-08:002012-02-12T16:49:07.278-08:00I make costumes for a living so I have a bias ther...I make costumes for a living so I have a bias there... ;) With historical clothing I generally have to start with a basic pattern in the period shape and then change it to match the inspiration image or to whatever design I'm trying to make which is essentially the sloper method of dress design. <br /><br />Until the 1960s or so most dress patterns came off similar blocks. If you take vintage patterns from different companies of similar style and lay them one over another there are usually only minor differences. Back then it would have been useful to have a standard pattern.<br /><br />But nowadays anything goes in dress styles and there are so many differences in the cut and amount of ease from pattern to pattern that I find having a basic pattern fitted to myself is only useful if I want to design a dress totally from scratch. I'm more of a 'save time by altering from similar pattern' kind of gal.Emmahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07450257710644126220noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-57563997613295074672012-02-12T11:06:18.690-08:002012-02-12T11:06:18.690-08:00And speak of the devil!
Hmmm... I love you - but ...And speak of the devil! <br />Hmmm... I love you - but I think your fitting assessment might be a bit - off. I'll give you points for trying though ;) <br />I think I could get into the Mardi Gras revelry - especially some of the parades - a bit more if I didn't have to pay $17 just to get near the place. However I HAVE (obviously) been enjoying the silly decorated golf carts!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-16840383027340812772012-02-12T11:00:47.633-08:002012-02-12T11:00:47.633-08:00Thank you Laura! It seems the major consensus is t...Thank you Laura! It seems the major consensus is the length. I also think there might be a width issue in the upper back - when I stand to the side it bubbles out a bit between my shoulder blades - which maybe is from both the excess length and width?<br /><br />I wish I had a sewing assistant! Unfortunately my Mom (who's not much of a seamstress, as she'd tell you herself) is some 8000 miles away :(sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-58674481954370531342012-02-12T10:57:30.859-08:002012-02-12T10:57:30.859-08:00Thanks for the advice Candace! I would love to dra...Thanks for the advice Candace! I would love to drape directly on a dress form. Unfortunately when I bought my dress form I was quite the novice and I didn't check the upper bust measurement. Its waaaaay bigger than I am and no amount of adjusting will change that. Eventually - when I am wealthy (or perhaps just after tax season?) I'd like to buy a new dress form and pad it out to my measurements. But for the time being I'll just bang my head against the wall with flat patterns!!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-81383251595721659222012-02-12T10:54:03.760-08:002012-02-12T10:54:03.760-08:00Hmm - yes I definitely think its too long in the w...Hmm - yes I definitely think its too long in the waist. I'll try pinching out some extra fabric at the shoulder dart and see how that looks. Thanks Meli!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-53669591863897748972012-02-12T10:52:45.644-08:002012-02-12T10:52:45.644-08:00Oh bless you Emma - you Mardi Gras Saint!
Its fu...Oh bless you Emma - you Mardi Gras Saint! <br /><br />Its funny - the first ever sloper I made was from instructions for historical costuming. I never really fit, however so I ended up scrapping it. Do you think slopers lend themselves better to historical garments?sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-72912253452720128672012-02-12T10:50:45.199-08:002012-02-12T10:50:45.199-08:00Thank you Sunni! I trust your fitting eye one hund...Thank you Sunni! I trust your fitting eye one hundred percent - you are, after all, the master! Swaybacks are usually an adjustment I have to make. I have a high waist all around, but its weirdly high in the back! I agree that other than that I don't want to nip it in too much - right now its rather comfy and comfort is key!<br /><br />I truly hope that my sloper will be useful, not just for pattern drafting - which I'm super pumped to jump into - but also, like you said, to speed up my fitting process with commercial patterns. Because lord knows, if I can cut down my muslin time I will be one happy seamstress!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-76807836658041162432012-02-12T10:44:26.301-08:002012-02-12T10:44:26.301-08:00Hey Jill! Thanks! I love the "get off my lawn...Hey Jill! Thanks! I love the "get off my lawn" title - its really truly accurate! Glad I'm not the only one.<br /><br />Thanks for the link - I think a swayback adjustment is definitely in order (among other things...sigh)sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-45739965626442432812012-02-12T10:42:02.570-08:002012-02-12T10:42:02.570-08:00Hey Kelli! Yeah, I think the sloper might be more ...Hey Kelli! Yeah, I think the sloper might be more positive thinking on my part. But who knows - its been one of those "to do's" on my list forever so at least I can say I gave it a shot!sallie oleta barbeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00184217699471081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-20495137095032128402012-02-12T04:51:31.420-08:002012-02-12T04:51:31.420-08:00Tee Hee you curmudgeon you! ( Sorry. That's th...Tee Hee you curmudgeon you! ( Sorry. That's the only thing I could comment on as you lost me with the slopeyslopes. To me the back looks like its too short and therefore cut into fast so now is pulling across your upper waist. No shit Sherlock??? OK I'll keep my non-sewer comments to myself! Happy sloping!!)momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14465492987851652740noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-928669938764019582012-02-12T04:36:51.981-08:002012-02-12T04:36:51.981-08:00The back is definitely too long - I had this issue...The back is definitely too long - I had this issue too. Maybe it's a tiny bit too wide as well, but only at the upper back - between the shoulders.<br /><br />Anyway, you can't take back measurements yourself. I got my mum to help me. It seems like husbands/boyfriends quickly get distracted by other body parts, haha. :D<br /><br />P.S.: Love your blog! :)Laurahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06632029883538653574noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-23976322868133278062012-02-11T22:14:23.216-08:002012-02-11T22:14:23.216-08:00The frustration is that you can't fit on yours...The frustration is that you can't fit on yourself! In school we always made our slopers for a partner in class so you can pin and fuss around with your work on another body. My solution when trying to fit for myself is a my dress form which is very close to my shape/size.<br /><br />All the flat pattern drafting in the world just doesn't compare to draping and fitting on the body. After the leg work of learning it, now I only ever create slopers on the dress form, fit them on the body and move on, it just sames time and hair tearing out.CandaceClayhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17662626812034625990noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-67064497281427733962012-02-11T17:33:33.419-08:002012-02-11T17:33:33.419-08:00Oh fun! I made a sloper once, and it didn't f...Oh fun! I made a sloper once, and it didn't fit me at all...but instead of trying to fix it I just gave up. Instead I use a heavily altered pattern as a sloper, which it basically is by this point. I think the shoulders look a bit long, so you could maybe use a small dart in the back of the shoulders? And it looks a little long in the waist, which may be why it's showing so many wrinkles. But I'm no expert, I'd listen to the lovely who supplied the website!Melihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12582347810089261136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1937322106192241083.post-73921792248084133202012-02-11T16:44:15.617-08:002012-02-11T16:44:15.617-08:00I agree on the curmudgeon-ness. My job is inside t...I agree on the curmudgeon-ness. My job is inside the Mardi Gras gates so it was noisy all day long. <br /><br />I've made slopers occasionally but have only ever used them for historical costumes. They don't seem to have much utility for modern clothes. :/Emmahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07450257710644126220noreply@blogger.com