clockwise from top left: liberty of london, tessuti, liberty of london, leatherwise, tessuti, tessuti
my poor dad used to always lament that i could walk into a store filled with racks of things that all look the same, and somehow i'd pick out the most expensive item.
this trait didn't really end when i started paying for things myself. in fact for a time it got worse. my money - i buy what i want, right? i admit i may have spent my food money on a new sweater more often than i care to say. or, more accurately, bought the food and the sweater and overdrew my bank account. thankfully, this habit didn't carry itself too far into adulthood. at some point, i learned that for every extravagance there needs to be a sacrifice.
i don't make a lot of money. making a lot of money is not a priority in my life. but that doesn't change the fact that i have an appetite for nice things - namely clothes. this is one of the reasons i began to sew. no. this is the one reason i began to sew. my mother doesn't sew. i didn't grow up around it. my love for sewing is directly and inextricably linked to my love for beautiful clothes. garments that are often outstandingly out of my price range.
but when it comes to sewing - my habits really haven't changed. i have a weakness for expensive fabric. no lie. i have endless amounts of admiration for all the sewing bloggers that pillage their fabric from thrift stores, or swaps. whose total cost for a garment is $2 (sew weekly ladies, i'm looking at you!) and look amazing! but thats just not me! ever wonder why i don't post the total cost of my garments? because most of the time, i'm too embarrassed to say!
full disclosure: i probably spent $150 - 180 total on supplies for my red jacket. the bulk of that was the wool gabardine i used for the shell. $180 dollars is a lot of money to me. but out of those materials i got a jacket, a pair of pants, and now i'm working on a dress from the leftover lining fabric. so three items for $180 doesn't seem so bad anymore! especially three items that could retail for $180 each at a store like jcrew. true, i opted for the rayon lining over the silk, but that wool was... well... gorgeous, and do you know how hard it is to find a good red?
so how do i manage this expensive fabric habit? well for starters - i may be the one and only sewista out there that doesn't have a stash (or has a very very very small, extremely manageable one). i don't really buy fabric without a plan. and i try to be as exact as possible with my yardage. secondly, i sew slow (as we know) so i'm not really making tons of clothes. and finally, i skimp in other areas of my life. i take a savage pleasure in a low grocery bill. i have the bare minimum health insurance. i make, cook, concoct or grow what i can. i'd take low rent over new appliances (or structural soundness) any day. i don't have cable (or own a tv). because for every extravagance - there are sacrifices.
sloper update: i decided i really needed to draft sleeves. if i ever get over my disgust with this whole endeavor perhaps i'll post the results. the title for the post will probably be something like "slopers: the many headed hydra"...
xx
I know what you mean. I just don't understand why there are not more fashionable fabric options for cheaper. It is SO hard to find modern fashion fabric and yet there are so many of us. I just don't get it.
ReplyDeleteIts so true - I mean, don't get me wrong, I know that traditionally quality comes with a price, but I'm not always looking to sew in silk! Why aren't there better prints available? And why do I have to buy everything online?
DeleteI understand completely!!! I also think that hating polyester plays a large part of that. Why buy a dull plastic fabric when I can choose a faboulous silk/cotton fabric instead. My sewing projects rarely end up in the low price range. My current sewing is a good example - it started with a large remmant for $20 that I decided I needed to interline with silk organza, its now a $80 dress.
ReplyDeleteGlad I'm not the only one! Oh god - I didn't even bring up polyester for fear of starting a ranting tirade!! Needless to say - I can't wear plastic....haha!
DeleteMy dad used to have the same laments, and now my husband does. As for fabrics, I also feel your pain there--if you want to buy fabric that's not polyester, you're pretty much sucked into paying a pretty good chunk of change. That's probably why poly is so prevalent. I personally can't stand the stuff--it's miserable to wear if you're a person who ever sweats, (I'm a sweater) but few people seem to be bothered by it....?
ReplyDeletePoor Dads! I'm with you - I can't stand polyester. Not only am I sweater as well - but I also live in a hot and humid climate. Polyester just really isn't an option!
DeleteI've got the same "problem". But a big reason why I sew is because I love gorgeous silk blouses and dresses, and nice wool pants and jackets, and even though fabric can be expensive, it's still so much cheaper than buying a silk dress off the rack that's made in China. Just turn some of those expensive garments from Anthro inside out, so often I see appaling finishing. Besides, you're garment is made to measure, handtailored, so thinking about how much a bespoke suit from Savile Row would cost, you got yourself a bargain with your lovely jacket and pants!
ReplyDeleteBtw, silk gets very hot as a lining (and stains easily in the armpit region), a nice Rayon Bemberg is a great choice!
It's the one reason I started to sew as well. I feel like it's a win-win-win situation - the style of clothing I like (expensive) I can now have, it fits me better than any store bought garment, and it doesn't cost me the earth. Funnily enough... I don't mind spending on fabric - because I know it can't possible come to a bad ending!
ReplyDeleteI'm making a suit (jacket and skirt) at the moment, and indulged in beautiful 100% wool and silk for the lining. It appears to be expensive - but there's no way I'd be able to buy something of that quality in the shops for anywhere NEAR the price I paid for the fabric. That to me makes it perfectly justified :)
Yes! Really the huge money saver is the production cost - I don't have to pay myself anything!
DeleteYou don't know me but I came to visit from the Tessuti Blog.....:) and your title struck a total chord....:)... I have a similar problem.... :) champagne taste my whole life.... I just cant help it....:) and no champagne budget to match....:( I can't work out where those sewingistas find their cheap fabric either.... ???? I am addicted to Tesssuti.... As not much other choice is available.... And yes I wish too I could see.... touch and feel the fabric the fabric prior to purchase... But living in a rural remote area this is not possible.... I smiled when I saw your images.... I have some of those fabrics already...and a few of the others are on my wish list .... Or should that be Buy Next list...... Lol! I too have a fondness for beautiful chlothes hence have just taking up sewing again..... But yes by the time you buy all the makings it does add up....
ReplyDeleteLove your blog....:) sorry my first message is so long... Just wanted to say yes I agree Totally....:)
Lou
Hi Lou! Welcome! I'm so glad you stopped by! I'm also (recently) addicted to Tessuti - obviously! Some of those fabrics were recent purchases for me too. It is hard living in a somewhat remote area (for me - the closest real fabric store is an hour away) precisely because I wish I could touch the fabric before I buy. That might be why I trust places like Tessuti more - I feel like they ONLY carry quality. I could go on all day about fabric!
DeleteI too have expensive taste in fabric... Liberty, silk, designer prints, wool!! Sewing is not a cheap hobby but gosh it is enjoyable
ReplyDeleteAgreed!!
DeleteIt goes beyond expensive taste... You've been 'designing' clothes since you were four years old!
ReplyDeleteTeehee - those Kleenex finger puppets were just the "gateway drug"
Deletewe can't help it... it's a family trait. I envy you (and all those who posted comments) the ability to create that which you desire... so wonderful. ps love the fabric swatches featured... are those one's you're looking into for your spring line, or one's you're lusting after? xx
ReplyDeleteI still think a bit of sewing might be in your future! Its not that hard!! As far as I can tell its far more painless than knitting ;)
DeleteYes - I DID buy some of those fabrics up there - but then some are also just ones I'm lusting after.
Your champagne taste is precisely why I love your blog Salie. I love your taste and everything you turn out and think its wise to invest in garments that will last and give you satisfaction that far exceeds anything you could buy in a store.
ReplyDeleteI am turning into a stash hoarder and do love turning out garments for under $20 but that's mostly because I'm just starting out and can't bare the thought of ruining an expensive silk or wool. Eventually I would like to get to a sewing level where I can drop some serious dough on a beautiful fabric and know I'll do it justice. And I couldn't agree more about living frugally. I find I'm much more satisfied and peaceful living a simple life than when I was making way more money and buying way more stuff I didn't need.
Thank you Heather Lou <3 you just made my day.
DeleteIt is intimidating working with an expensive fabric when you're just learning to sew. Unfortunately I don't think I have the same restraint as you and so I know I would just buy the expensive stuff and, on occasion, totally bomb a project. Probably not the wisest way to go about things but I tend to run into things headlong like that! Ha!
I have expensive fabric tastes too - I think I make a lot of other sewing bloggers cringe when I excitedly announce that I spent $50 on JUST the lining for a dress! Ha! This has now also moved on to include yarn. My poor budget.
ReplyDeleteFor me personally, sewing with super cheap fabric just seems like such a waste. If I'm going to spend all this time & effort into ONE piece of clothing, I want it to be made up with quality materials that will wear well for years. I don't think it's very wasteful when you consider that sewing is my hobby, so you could also group that $$ into fun money that I'm not spending at the bar or whatever. And I find myself working much more carefully with fabric that costs a significant amount - because I want the finished garment to be worth the money I spent! So no cutting corners, overlooking mistakes, etc.
Of course, right now I'm on a giant fabric budget, so I'm just working through my stash - which is full of both expensive & flea market fabrics :)
I totally agree! I think working with expensive fabric makes me put more care into what I sew. I make more muslins and correct mistakes etc... And you're right - sewing is pretty much my main outlet - I'm pretty much a hermit at the expense of my expensive fabric tastes - and I wouldn't have it any other way ;)
DeleteI really like sewing with cheap fabric :/ but depending on what it is. I can manage to find something halfway decent at the garment district for a blouse or skirt or dress, but if I'm working on a huge project though like a coat I'll definitely shell out the $$$ for it.
ReplyDeleteHey Janice! I have a lot of respect for people that work with cheap fabric and can turn out something awesome. It was definitely something that I TRIED to do for my first few sewing projects - but then I just got lured by all the pretty silks! It was like a Siren call to me!
DeleteI think that since it's your hobby, you're learning new skills, and you're not buying as much clothing, that you shouldn't feel bad about spending a little extra on nice fabric :)
ReplyDeleteAmen!
DeleteNO I don't have a stash but I don't live in N America either. I was 'forced' into having one in the January sales, but the stash(and it was a very small one) is diminishing quickly. I can't manage stashes - not enough width, length or whatever, for what I want to make. I'm with you (even though there may only be two of us) select a pattern, buy what you need, make, wear and enjoy. There's no problem in that. Two might just make a crowd.....
ReplyDeleteI think we're in good company then ;)
DeleteMy mom has said the same thing about me my entire life! It's like I make a beeline for the most expensive everything, without even realizing it. And the same is true with fabric. I love fine fabric. The thing is, I also love thrifting. While I always opt for the finer textiles when I can, I have this collection of thrifted garments and acquired fabric that would be so wasteful to give up, or would make me feel so guilty. So, I balance the silk charmeuse lining here with an polyester upcycle there, and hope it all balances out.
ReplyDeleteAh yes! Balance is the key! Somehow I feel that upcycling deserves its own thing - I think that vintage and thrifted garments have a beauty and a quality all their own - its almost like a completely different economy. I applaud you on your ability to achieve fabric balance!
DeleteHow fun to see so many afflicted with the same "problem"! Both in reading your post and all the comments. Until now I felt a little lost at sea amongst so many who find fabric for pennies. My weakness is FineFabrics.com. It's a small shop, but I want everything in it. I appease my desires the same as you - buying when I have a specific project in mind. Oh, to have unlimited time and money... Though, really, I like things just as they are.
ReplyDeleteOoh! I can't wait to check out FineFabrics! Yes - I think buying with specific projects in mind is key - at least for me - to keeping my fabric habit in check!
DeleteI love this, I'm the exact same way. Liberty, fancy silks and cottons, I can't take it. It's a darn good thing that I don't live in a city with really nice fabric stores and I have to resort to oogling fabric online or I'd be a hobo. But at least I'd have a nice scrap of fabric on my hobo stick!!
ReplyDeleteHahaha! I love that! Me too! What a dashing hobo troupe we'd make!
DeleteAll those fabrics are indeed so lovely. I grew up around sewing and had almost no money for clothes and for a long time sewing was definitely my way of being as frugal as possible. Now it's about pleasure, as is fashion and I love investing in that, too. I had to laugh a bit because my husband has champagne tastes in beer! (and makes his own, too)--he's an artist who appreciates fine and beautiful things and is all about me having beautiful textiles around to play with.
ReplyDeleteI definitely started sewing as a way to save money - but it quickly became about the pleasure too. My husband is also an artist and so thankfully completely understands the need to invest in my "craft". I might have to get him to start making his own beer though - that sounds fantastic!
Deleteedit that - I thought I might be able to save money by sewing - but like I said up top - it was really about the clothes...
DeleteI totally 100% agree, am exactly the same! LOL I like to justify the money I spend on quality fabrics and other items by the knowledge I'm gaining, and the fact that an equivalent garment in RTW will usually cost more, fit much worse, and be made of the dreaded polyester :) Looking at it that way, I'm saving myself loads of money! lol
ReplyDeleteOh thats a good way to look at it! I never thought of it as an economy of knowledge... excellent point Symon!
DeleteOh sally, how come I haven't found you blog sooner?! I never comment on blogs (more of a lurker myself) but when I stubbled upon those hot red pants of yours I couldn't help but stop in and say hi. Not only have I been pining for a pair of those babies in red but I've been meaning getting off my a*$ and making me a sloper for some time. Nice to see someone being productive with their free time! Thanks for all the inspiration and sewing tutorials. I'm sure they'll come in handy soon. Just bought 2 yds of olive silk to make a dress--new Burda pattern 107B. Hear you on expensive taste-lucky enough I live in nyc and had a bday gift certificate to Mood so I could afford the end bolt of some Theory fabric!Wish me luck...
ReplyDeleteHi Kim! Welcome! I'm so glad you found my blog whenever you did <3
DeleteThanks for the compliments on the red pants - they are weirdly becoming one of the most versatile items in my wardrobe! It seems we're trying to tackle some of the same projects! I've been pounding my head against the wall with the sloper - let me tell you!
Good luck with your Burda pattern (I was eyeing that one as well!) and your olive silk (sounds so chic and luxurious!) and I am SO JEALOUS of your NYC garment district proximity! Lucky lady...
It's all about restraint. Living so close to a fabric mecca has it's drawbacks--the tempation to spend is god awful! I plan on working up to the sloper, but admittedly, after reading your woes, I'm scared, ha! But no worries, I've got my Burda pattern keeping me busy. I'll post some pics when it's done. Btw-I read you work in a gallery. Funny, my hubby is a painter (post minimal work) who has had a bunch of sales down in Houston. Don't have to answer if too personal, but may I ask what gallery you are at? Wouldn't it be funny if we knew people in common. As I'm sure you know--the art world is so small:)
DeleteOh how weird! My husband is also an artist (we met getting our MFA's in painting)! I actually no longer work at the gallery - but am now working at an arts non profit in Galveston. However the gallery I used to work at showed strictly contemporary Latin American artists (I won't say for privacy sake) - however I'm pretty familiar with the Houston art scene - so its quite possible we know some of the same people - it is, as you say, very small ;)
DeleteYou're a painter too--my, so multi-talented!Think it's time to cue up the Twilight Zone soundtrack here...Agreed for privacy sake, let's say I know the gallery (husband's a Spaniard) and one of the artists working there rented a room in my apt before I had met my man. You and I didn't even hit the 6 degrees, more like one. Super weird. Anyhoo, if you'd like to compare notes offline here's my email: kimasson@gmail.com. And to think all this started over a mutual love of red pants, lol! Life's full of surprises, no? Enjoy the rest of your weekend!
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