9.24.2013

art teacher


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I know! Two posts in one week!! Craziness! And the excitement doesn't end here... hint hint...

So, do you guys remember your art teachers growing up? I was really lucky to have some wonderful art teachers (one of whom was my Mom - hi Mom!!  I might be biased, but she was my favorite!) and while I may have found my way into a creative field all on my own, I definitely would not have had the amount of confidence and wherewithal to pursue my degrees in Painting without the support and encouragement of my art teachers.  I mean... I certainly wasn't getting any encouragement to continue on with math or science... so, I'm glad someone saw something in me!

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But this post isn't just a testimonial to the importance of arts education in public schools (although don't get me started...) It's about some of the other effects that art teachers had on me.  I'm talking about style here.  One of my style inspirations is always some kind of mish-mash of all my art teachers.  There's just such an amazing, eclectic mix of professional/bohemian, practical/elegant, modern/vintage vibes going on with the art educator set! Not to mention a (typically) keen eye for color, proportion, and texture.  

This jacket feels like something that one of my art teachers (or maybe just my Mom...this is a good thing) would have worn.  There were lots of sneak peeks of this make in my last post because I literally wore it every. single. day while I was in NYC.  I have to say - up to this date - this might be one of my favorite handmade additions to my closet.  It's just seriously cool.

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A few months ago, Colette from Tessuti contacted me to see if I'd like to review one of their patterns.  Have you guys been keeping up on the patterns that have been coming out of there? Really great stuff. Basics with a twist - definitely my kind of thing.  And also the sort of garments that would be flattering on a wide range of women, both age-wise and body-type.  I chose to make the Tokyo Jacket - a loose, unstructured, kimono-inspired jacket that works well in lighter, drape-ier fabrics.  I could just tell immediately from the line-drawings and the pictures on their site that this would be my kind of thing.  I love clothing with a somewhat Japanese aesthetic, and a dramatic fit. I will also be ordering the Suzy Pant as soon as payday comes... hello favorite new fall pant!

It took me a little while to get around making this jacket - mainly because I couldn't quite wrap my head around making a jacket, no matter how lightweight, when the temperatures were over 100 degrees! But with the approach of fall I decided it was time to delve in, and boy am I glad I did! This seems to go with everything in my closet!


This was one of those times that I had a really clear idea about what kind of fabric I wanted to pair with the pattern.  I knew as soon as I had the pattern in my hands that I wanted to make this out of some kind of shibori-dyed fabric, to highlight the kimono silhouette.  I used some silk noil (the same stuff I used to make this dress) and tried a itajime-shibori technique.  This basically means that the fabric was folded and then used some kind of shape-resist to prevent the dye from penetrating all the way through.  I was dyeing about 2 1/2 yards... you guys... that was a lot of folding! I can't totally say if my process was legit-shibori (I'm an internet learner) but I loved the outcome!

I didn't use a traditional indigo dye bath, but instead just used my trusty Dharma procion dyes.  Believe it or not, this dye color was supposed to black! That just goes to show you how unpredictable dye colors can be! It turned out more of a gray-ish blue with (though you can't see it in these pictures) an almost pink-ish haze around the blue.

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My yardage of this silk noil was pretty narrow, so I had to fold it on the cross-grain in order to cut the pattern pieces.  My one regret with this jacket is that I did not follow my gut and cut the back piece on the fold (the instructions were to cut two).  There was just no way I was going to get the pattern to match up at that center back seam otherwise.  But like many things, this felt like a bit of a bummer at the time, but after wearing it around for a whole weekend, it really doesn't bother me (we'll call it a 'design feature').  Next time...

So the pattern! I requested a paper pattern because I was feeling a bit burnt out on all the printing and taping of digital patterns, but these patterns are available both ways.  They have a handmade look to them which is pleasant - like a pattern your friend drafted for you.  Everything matched up perfectly and the fit was spot on. I made a size S based on my measurements.  Obviously this jacket is very roomy so I probably could have made an XS, but when a garment like this is designed to have excessive ease I like to follow the designers size suggestions so it fits how they envision (interestingly enough, this is the total opposite to when I'm making a more fitted garment - then I base everything off of the finished garment measurements).

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The instructions were impeccable! So, so thorough.  I didn't run into any problems sewing this up! The pattern says it is for Intermediate to Super-Advanced sewers, but honestly, based on how descriptive the instructions are I think a beginner-intermediate sewer could handle this, no problem. The trickiest part (in my opinion) was the pockets, and this was simply because they come together in a way I have never quite seen before, but I just trusted Tessuti and followed the instructions and lo-and-behold! Perfect pockets! 

I had the bare minimum of my yardage to make this  jacket, so I opted to do the cuffs and pocket trim in a contrast fabric.  This was one of the other reasons it took me a while to finally make this jacket - I was searching for the perfect trim fabric. You know, that mythical fabric that will just magically take this jacket from "awesome" to "amaze-balls"..? Well I found it, but it wasn't in any of my local stores.  


You see, I really wanted to have this jacket ready for my trip to New York, so I ended up rooting around in my scraps until I found something that struck my fancy - leather! I had left-over cream lamb-skin from making this jacket, and leftover black pleather from making these pants, and after a brief consultation on Instagram I followed the overwhelming advice to go with cream and I was off and away! And, wow, you guys I am  so glad  I took your advice and went with the cream leather! It just looks, and feels (and smells) so luxe! I added a small ribbon of trim along the collar to separate the collar from the body of the jacket, and to balance the other leather accents.  Those little bits of leather are really what makes this jacket extra-special to me. I just love the combined textures of the nubby silk-noil and buttery soft leather... mmmm.... Side note: this has totally renewed my love of sewing with leather... I am already scheming... many schemes...

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So yeah! I'm super excited about this jacket!! A huge 'thank you' to Colette for sending me this pattern, and for always being such a huge supporter of this sewing-blog community! 

And now... for something extra exciting!! Tessuti is giving away one Tokyo Jacket pattern to one of my readers!! If you're in the Northern hemisphere, this jacket will make a great layering piece for fall - and if you're about to enter spring, this is the perfect lightweight layer to throw on over a sleeveless shirt (or, in my case, jumpsuit!) Basically - transitional weather perfection! 

Leave a comment with an email address where I can reach you - extra points if you make me laugh - and I'll choose a winner at random... oh... say... next Monday, September 30th at 8pm?  Sounds like a great way to cap off September! 

xx

54 comments:

  1. Yeah, seeing this again is making me want to buy ALL the noil and dye it the same way. You make me a total copycat. It had such a GREAT texture - it might make a good option for this drapey jacket pattern I've been holding onto forevs... and still so intimidated by leather but it looked so polished and awesome.... oh man. So sad I won't get to see all your beautiful shit in person anytime soon....

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  2. This jacket is so amazing! I love what you did with the dye, and the leather accents are perfect. You do look like an art teacher!

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  3. Dude you are such an amazing fabric dyer. Lord! I actually really like the back not matching up, that sort of thing is kind of my jam. I never match prints on pockets, etc. Also I really want to make the Suzy pant but I'm sort of terrified of that shape on me. Maybe you'll give me the kick in the ass I need to just get it done.

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  4. your dyeing skills amaze me every single time.. is it wrong that i want to make the very same fabric? and those previous ones too..
    oh, and jacket is fantastic and i can totally imagine my art teacher wearing it :)

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  5. That is a phenomenal jacket - and the leather accents are just PERFECT! That dye-job is absolutely beautiful with the pattern, and definitely yes the pattern unmatch on the back seam is a great design feature :)


    [katherine.jones13 AT gmail.com]

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  6. this is gorgeous! In school, I was the person who always had scotch tape, reinforcement labels for hole-punched paper and an extra pen in my pencil case. I'm definitely not the bohemian type, hehehe, and I'm not sure I could pull off this style of jacket but I'd like to try!

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  7. you make me want to dye something... it looks so easy and effortless, but i suspect it's actually quite involved... i go back to your tutorial from time to time and dream :)

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  8. Damn, that is such a dreamy dye job! I really like the unpredictability of dye colors and I looove the little faded pink halo around the lines. There you go again igniting some serious closet envy within me.

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  9. Definitely an art teacher. The moody black and the boxy jacket!

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  10. Oh wow, that jacket is amazing!
    You almost made me want a jumpsuit after your last post, and now you make me want a kimono jacket! Stop it already, my sewing wishlist is getting out of hand! (:
    Thanks for the chance to win!
    (jana [dot] giveaway [at] plokta [dot] org)

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  11. johanna@projects by meSeptember 24, 2013 at 9:46 AM

    Make you laugh... I don't know... But thinking of my art teachers, makes me think of one of my music teachers, and this is not funny, but sad... Apparently (the rumour said) he used to throw a dice to grade the pupils (1 to 5) except for the girls with big boobs, they always got 5! I only got a 3... No big boobs back then... :) I have much better memories of my art teachers! :)


    I'd love to ty out the tokyo jacket - yours is beyond amazing!

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  12. You are becoming a fabric dying professional! One of these days I'm going to try... What I remember most from art class was that my teacher loved Burt Reynolds. She used to have a Burt Reynolds movie running in the background of each and every class. Sadly, though I know she wore fabulous garments, I think Burt wiped my memory of any specific garment. Anyway, wonderful jacket. With all that ease I think it would definitely work with my belly this fall, so count me into the giveaway! amy.ahearta at gmail dot com

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  13. That is such a lovely jacket! The pockets are ingenious -- but I do wonder how much they could hold?

    I would definitely like to enter the giveaway. My email is diyang [dot] tang [at] gmail [dot] com. And for the extra points, you should check out these guys who also did some clever dyeing: http://boingboing.net/2013/09/21/dragoncon-cosplayers-who-dress.html

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  14. This jacket is gorgeous! And definitely something I would love to make in a ton of gorgeous, drapey fabrics - I'd love to do a black rayon version with a hand-painted discharge pattern. My boyfriend has been calling my style 'Southwestern Art Teacher' for about a year now - I don't think he originally meant it as a compliment, but I certainly take it that way. :)

    [the_other_emily AT yahoo.com]

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  15. I'm Canadian but 5 months ago I learned to sew in Melbourne because the city had so many great shops and stores. Then I went to Sydney and for 4 days in a row I walked to tessuti because I was transfixed by the beautiful fabrics! it's so fun to read now about tessuti on blogs because 5 months ago I just thought I was in a wonderland! :D it's fun where life takes you. (Chrystalmckay@gmail.com)

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  16. my momma was my art teacher too - and this cut is absolutely her kind of style. i always pick a sewing project for the week or two that i spend at home over the winter holidays; maybe i'll have to save this one for us to do a two-person sew along.
    [olivia -dot- hillmer -at- gmail -dot- com]

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  17. Oh, what a object of beauty! Really reminds me of kimono overcoat with a 21st century twist. Love the photos of all of you in NYC. Envious!!!


    goldenstar60022 at gmail dot com

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  18. Gorgeous jacket! It looks super cool with the white leather accents :) Could it be that the colour turned out differently because its silk? That's what Shabd told us, that on silk the colours turn out really different then the colour it's supposed to be (it will be true to the colour on cotton)..

    For smiles I highly recommend this youtube video:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8ISzf2pryI
    Revesmecanique(at)gmail.com

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  19. So glad you posted about the jacket I kept coming back to it in your post yesterday.. It is truly stunning. Oh and I wholeheartedly agree about Colette. She is a real gem. (kirsty dot bunfield at gmail dot com)

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  20. I feel so lucky that I got to see this jacket in real life. So gorgeous and the leather is indeed an excellent touch. You have inspired me to learning how to paint on silk.
    I did not get into painting myself until college, where my world was introduced to oil painting.The only art teacher that I can kind of remember was from high school and I think I would get in the most trouble in her class. :-/

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  21. Awesome jacket! I've been thinking about making this jacket for awhile, this is such a beautiful version of it. Do you know Upstate clothing? You may want to check them out for inspiration for future projects, their shibori work is gorgeous : )

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  22. I basically want to be Margy from the blog fool4fabric.blogspot.com/ when I grow up, but it looks like you beat me to it. This looks like something you stole from her. I thought I had a few decades to work on my arty-jackety style, but if were to win the giveaway, I will get down to business right away. I'm definitely beating you when it comes to getting grey hair, so there's that anyway.

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  23. Oh after seeing yours, I definitely want one! jenlilley@hotmail.com

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  24. WOW!! This is completely awesome, and your print is mindblowingly cool I love how it turned out! And the leather trim is just the right touch of unexpected... so.. yeah awesome.
    Thanks for the giveaway, and please count me in :)

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  25. Oh my goodness you are on a roll! And your dying skills inspire me with each and every new post. But I'm sorry, it's too hot in Brisbane to make you laugh. I hope someone who isn't living in a sauna gets this incredible pattern! x

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  26. wow this is an awesome jacket and certainly reminiscent of many art teacher haute couture!

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  27. You're my hero. These last two, phwoa! Beyond amazing. I am definitely going to have a look at this pattern. And by the way, I love the two posts in one week but I'm just happy seeing a Sallieoh post pop up, don't care if its fortnightly, monthly bi-annually. You rock!

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  28. Wow!Your posts always get me inspired to create!I love the jacket and thank you so much for the giveaway!

    thewardrobeproject.email@gmail.com

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  29. This is all kinds of fierce! Loves it!

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  30. I love the jacket . . .and you look way better than my art teachers :)

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  31. Outstanding. The leather accents are a stroke of stylin' genius.

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  32. Beautiful. Your work is SO inspiring, Sallie. I love it. It would be great if you posted twice every week! I studied math, not art (although I wanted to study art and history, which is another story). Believe it or not though I had a female math teacher in high school who was not only my super hero role model but a style inspiration (yes!). Maybe all of that calculus and trigonometry helped her with proportion. :) (Actually, she was still wearing little Chanel-type jackets in the 1980s, which might have been more about sticking with a wardrobe she had accumulated earlier on. But nevermind - I'll stick with my story.)

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  33. So excited! Salie, this was so worth the wait. It's just beautiful. I kept seeing flashes of it from the NY instagramers when you were there and i thought "is that what i think it is??" I just knew you'd do something super special with it. Colette must be so happy. I love it!

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  34. This is exactly how the dream art teacher dresses!!! I love that jacket!! It's so beautiful!! In the photos and in person.



    I thought I recognized the pattern and now you've confirmed that I was right!! This is on my to-sew list. For sure!

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  35. Really lovely, as usual - stellar dye work!! :)

    My art teacher was a little crazy! LOL ... but he let me and the few other "gifted" students do whatever we wanted, so we had license to pursue our own projects and create without boundaries - that was definitely instrumental in me learning great project and time management, which has served me well as a graphic designer :)

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  36. Well, well, well... (flips hair and brushes shoulder off) those art teachers sure are stylish, aren't they?!? Ha ha! I don't know if you know this, but my mom is also an art teacher. We both teach in the same county so we have a lot of fun at district meetings. Funny thing is, I used to try and avoid art teacher style when I was younger. Maybe because it was so close to home. I can remember my mom wearing socks with her birkenstocks and being horrified. Now I embrace it. Not that I would wear socks and birkenstocks, but you know. I love me some hand-dyed, hand painted pieces. I would wear head to toe linen in a heartbeat. And I love to wear big funky jewelry when I can. Your jacket is so fabulously stylish I can't stand it. It's like art teacher couture :) The little bits of leather are just genius. I would love to make a version of this jacket and I think I'd have to paint something for it, too. Awesome, awesome, awesome.

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  37. I was adoring your jacket's trim and thinking the texture of it looked so much 'more' than fabric... leather you say? Gorgeous use of it, for sure - and so complimentary to that awesome print you've created. No need to count me in for this pattern (my to-sew list is already at least 2 years long) - but you've done an incredible job here. Love it!

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  38. Love it! I've been eyeing this pattern and the Suzi pant for some time. Just not came enough yet. I even have the perfect fabric for this jacket. Count me in! leithlilley (at) gmail (dot) com

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  39. the willpower i exhibited when seeing this is person was nothing short of miraculous. i may have tugged on the hem when you weren't looking. also, please give me the jumpsuit, and 6 or so inches of your height.

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  40. I recently moved back to San Francisco, a city where mid-weight layering items like this are a daily necessity! I need more of em in my life, and you've made this one look outrageously appealing. Also, thanks for the inspiration to try dying, sewing with leather, and to accept my love of that early 80's, clog wearing, volvo driving, loose layers loving art teacher aesthetic.



    futurette at yahoo

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  41. hey! So I just saw on Sown Brooklyn's blog that you guys all went to Mood, and I totally saw you there! I recognized Oona and Ginger but was a little too starstruck to approach them, haha. I remember seeing you (i.e. seeing your jacket) in the store but I didn't realize it was you, and I would totally have come up to you if I had realized! I do a lot of shibori dyeing too and just recently went from working full-time in marketing to going back to school for textile development and I read your blog and your blogroll so much when I was procrastinating at my old job. If I had realized it was you, I would have said thank you for helping me while away so many hours :) and it's so great to see your posts on dyeing and fabric painting! I have a few things up on www.sundaynightbluesshop.com but haven't started work on my blog yet. And re: your blog post title, a friend and I used to shop together and when we saw something hippie but cool, we'd label it "independently wealthy art teacher." It's not my look now but it's one I aspire to when I'm old and weird and I wear only blue.

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  42. I always look forward for updates on your blog! and i actually been eye-ing on the tokyo jacket pattern for my batik fabric <3 really hoping i'd be the lucky reader! kicciripp@gmail.com

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  43. Hey babe, I got your random winner right here! saramayo@shaw.ca

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  44. you have done a beautiful job. the beauty in making your own clothes is that although the sewing patterns is the same the way the finished object lies in the fabric you use. i spotted the pattern a couple of weeks ago. perhaps i'm the lucky one who can make you smile enough.

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  45. Dude! Everything you do and make oozes coolness! When I grown up (even though I think I'm older than you already), I want to be JUST like you! This jacket is all kinds of incredible!

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  46. Hey Susan!! Aw man, I'm so bummed about our "missed connection"! Haha! That's so cool that you've just gone back to school for textile development! If you had told me that I might not have let you leave the store!! I would have been pick-pick-picking your brain!! Anyway, thanks for reading the blog, and I'm so happy to have helped you procrastinate at the day job! I'm off now to check out some of your work!!

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  47. UUuuggghhhh GORGEOUS dye work!!! Color me jealous!!!

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  48. I can see why you wore this non-stop in nyc, the combo of the jacket and the shibori is so perfect! I love how the silk drapes. I would love a chance to win this pattern! angelamdenny@gmail.com

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  49. Such a stunning jacket! I love the dyeing. I think I'm in love! I'd love to win a pattern.
    Nadja_schaefer@freenet.de

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  50. This is so beautiful! I doubt I could ever make something as balls-to-the-wall awesome as your jacket, but I'd definitely love to try! I'm looking forward to seeing more posts you always have the coolest stuff!

    ruggedseam[at]gmail[dot]com

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  51. I love this so much! I was definitely tempted to grab this and run when I saw it in New York! Seriously cool! I have really fond memories of my art teacher (Ginger Boys... seriously... there was a holiday cookie every year with the same name that we liked to bring to class) and she always wore the greatest clothes and jewelry.

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  52. How did I miss this post last week? How could I? This is your favorite garment to date and mine too! Better than your jeans or any dress you've made.


    I was thinking about you this weekend and how proud you would be of me. I literally spent the entire weekend hovered over my stove with 4 yards bamboo/rayon, alkanet, alum, cream of tartar, and synthrapol. Yep, you inspired me to dye. Just like bramaking, it's a whole new world, but I love it! Bramaking is still my thing, but hey, I want to be one well-rounded sewer.


    And if you were my art teacher wearing this jacket, you'd be the coolest teacher around!

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  53. That jacket is so cool! I am glad I am not too late for the giveaway! Thanks!

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