11.26.2014

wool weather

Mood Fabric Wool Sweater Knit Saiph Dress 

Howdy Y'all! Well, it's finally sweater weather here in East Texas. Sorta. Off and on at least! Which means that it's time for me to do what I do every year around this time: freak out about my utter lack of cold weather clothing and start eyeing the blankets on the back of the couch maniacally, wondering if I can quickly drape and belt them into some passable semblance of clothing! Every year I feel completely taken off guard when the mercury decides to dip below 60 degrees (that's about 15C to all my non 'Merican friends).  I think having 9 months out of the year with triple digit temps does something to your brain...

That's why this month my Mood Sewing Network makes are all about quick, but warm, wooly dresses. I needed something warm, and I needed something warm now.  (Before the weather decides to return to balmy temperatures in a few days time!)

Mood Fabric Wool Sweater Knit Saiph Dress

My first dress was made using this thick and fuzzy Designer Wool Sweater Knit from Mood Fabrics online, which is, of course, no longer available. Those wool knits go fast dudes - my advice is if you see one you like, pounce on it, like a tiger, regardless of the seasonal appropriateness of it.  For example, I spotted this fabric back in early August - when just blinking put one in danger of overheating - and I think I must have been daydreaming about cooler weather because I had to have this fabric then. At that moment. I think Nick was a bit concerned when the box came and I proudly pulled out my yardage and started crooning over it's springy, scratchy, wooly goodness. Of course, maybe it wasn't the fact that I was buying wool sweater knits in the middle of August that caused his brow to furrow, but rather the fabric itself. It's a little bit like an 80's Cosby sweater thrown in a blender... I mean, what is with those colors?! And why am I kinda obsessed with them?

Mood Fabric Wool Sweater Knit Saiph Dress

Despite my love for this fabric, I had a bit of a hard time deciding what to do with it. It's quite thick, and scratchy, which means that whatever I made had to be roomy enough to wear something underneath, but not so big that I end up looking like the Michelin Man rolled in mud. I settled on variation 2 of the Saiph Tunic from Papercut Patterns because I had made one last year out of a medium weight black wool knit that I loved, but that sadly died a tragic death in the dryer (*sobs* R.I.P.) and I felt that this pattern worked well with heavier weight fabrics with a stiffer drape.

Mood Fabric Wool Sweater Knit Saiph Dress

Because this fabric was pretty lofty, I ended up changing a couple of things about the Saiph Tunic in order to keep bulk to a minimum.  First I left off the neck facing and instead just simply turned the neckline in 5/8" and topstitched it with a double needle. This made for a slightly wider neckline, but I'm okay with that.  I also left off the front in-seam pockets, which I'll admit was partly because of the bulk issue (4 layers of this fabric is a lot) and partly out of laziness.  Although I'm regretting not trying to find a thinner substitute fabric that would have worked, because I keep trying to dip my hands into non-existant pockets! I also omitted the back neck button closure because I remembered from my last version that the dress was plenty big enough to slip on and off over my head.

Mood Fabric Wool Sweater Knit Saiph Dress

Despite the thickness of this wool sweater knit, I had no problem zipping through it with my serger, which I used for all the major seams.  The cuffs and hem were stitched in place using my double needle on my regular machine.

I wasn't sure how I would feel about this dress, but after wearing it around the house and for pictures, I have to admit I'm fairly smitten! I love that the boxy shape is tempered by the short hem, and the horizontal seam at the drop waist does wonderful things visually to the crazy print.

Mood Fabrics Wool Knit Nettie Dress

But, you know, sometimes you just don't want to feel bulky all winter long! In which case, let me introduce you to my second wool knit dress for this month! This was made using a smooth, mid-weight wool jersey, with a nice amount of crosswise stretch, in a bitter chocolate color (I'm also not seeing this exact knit online anymore, but this gorgeous deep maroon jersey is catching my eye!)

Mood Fabrics Wool Knit Nettie Dress

Unlike the first sweater knit, this wool jersey was soft enough to wear against bare skin, so I thought a body-hugging silhouette might be really flattering. It's also thick enough and completely opaque so I don't have to worry about every little lump and bump showing through.  For this dress I used Closet Case Files Nettie Bodysuit & Dress pattern.  This pattern has so many great options for variations.  For this version I decided to make it a dress (obviously) and went with the high neckline for both the front and the back, and the long sleeve.  I was hoping the modest neckline might add a counterbalance to the curve-hugging silhouette.

Mood Fabrics Wool Knit Nettie Dress

This dress came together in no time at all. Of course it's a very simple design, but still, I think I wound up sewing the majority of this one morning before work! And I love the results. This dress is just so easy to throw on and yet still look like you tried. It's also warm, which was my main motive, and I think the bitter chocolate color is a nice, unexpected alternative to the usual black. I'm already eyeing more appropriate wool jersey to make more of these, because I could basically live in them all winter long.

Mood Fabrics Wool Knit Nettie DressMood Fabrics Wool Knit Nettie Dress

The only downside is that it attracts fuzzies and hair like it's its job! So please excuse all the lint in these closeup shots.  As far as construction goes, I just zoomed all the major seams through my serger.  The neckline was finished with self fabric binding, and the sleeves and cuffs were once again hemmed using my twin needle.  Easy peasy!

Mood Fabrics Wool Knit Nettie Dress

And that's it! Two quick and simple wool dresses to keep me warm... for as many weeks as winter decides to last! Best of all, both of these dresses go really well with these mulberry colored tights I pulled out of the depths of my sock drawer the other day, and immediately proclaimed them the perfect colored tights for Winter 2014/2015! Okay, okay... maybe they are just the only tights I still own that haven't been shredded to bits. Yet.

What are you sewing to keep warm or cool, depending on your hemisphere?

I hope all my friends here in the States have a safe and wonderful Thanksgiving week, and for all my international buddies, Happy Sewing, as always!

xx

23 comments:

  1. #babealert! Sallie, I wish I could look as good as you in cold weather! I'm such a baby that I never wear dresses in the winter, so I've been sewing boring tops lately. They're not very inspired, but at least I'll be warm in flannel and wool jersey! I really like both of these, but I'm particularly surprised by the multicolored sweater knit- it looks GREAT on you, and those seem like hard colors to wear!

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  2. Both look stunning - the wooly fabric is not something I would have considered in the fabric store, but seeing it sewn up like this makes me really like the 70s vibe that's going on. Great inspiration :)

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  3. Those are both such gorgeous dresses and how different they look with the fabric. Great job.

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  4. Sorry to interrupt, Ginger, but what they call cold weather in Texas would be considered mild in NYC and warm (if not hot) in Montréal. This being said, these two dresses are absolutely perfect for colder times, anywhere on the planet. Superb work, Sallie!

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  5. You look great in that tunic. The colours suit you! Good job with both items!

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  6. Gosh I am so in love with the saiph tunic! I want to make one up this weekend.

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  7. Happy Thanksgiving to YOU! I have been hoarding some special sweater fabric for an oversized dress/tunic and yours is just inspiring :) Love the LBD, warmth edition, as well ;)

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  8. Cozy and Sleek! Those are my names for your two new wardrobe additions :) You make me want to sew with knits more... it's so much faster to pump something wearable about!! They look gorgeous :)

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  9. I'm loving your color palette choices Sal! That teal in the pattern fabric really sets it off. Love that svelte bitter chocolate ditty too, looks super comfy.

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  10. That crazy, fuzzy wool tunic dress is utterly fantastic. Fantastic!!

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  11. Oh these are just so amazing! Love the funky vibe of dress one but that second one is one class act! You look gorgeous in both! I love them!

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  12. Love both dresses! IMHO I think a boxy shaped dress needs to be shorter...and you have the legs to pull it off perfectly! Looks great!

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  13. Freaking. Awesome. I love that sweater hard!

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  14. These are fantastic and I totally want to copy you black dress. The other dress is pretty amazing too!

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  15. Hi Sally! Love what you do here very much! As a longtime lurker I thought of you immediately when this post popped up in my reader this morning: http://www.abeautifulmess.com/2014/12/try-this-no-sew-sweater-wrap.html.

    Hugs!

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  16. Ha!! That is FANTASTIC!! Yes! That is basically what I want to do every. single. winter! Thank you for sharing, Karin!

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  17. LOVE both of these! I giggled at the Cosby sweater ref. because yes, and also because you totally pull it off!! I also almost fell off my chair at your LBD - super super stunning!!! Wool knits totally attract lint (and cat hair) like nobody's business, don't they!!


    Also FYI 15 degrees Celcius seems like warm balmy weather right now haha - we've been below zero for the past two weeks (admittedly colder than normal for the west coast but still… LOL)

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  18. Wow, I love these!!! I love the 80 colours mix (and the Saiph dress is now definitely on my wish list), and that may just be my absolute favourite Netty I have seen yet! Loving it all...lets hope it stays cold enough to necessitate wearing these all the time!

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  19. I love the knitted sweater you sewed it looks sooo warm love them!

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  20. Ooh I love talking lipstick!! Sorry for the late reply - but this particular color is from MAC and it's called "Hang-Up". It's actually a very dark shade, but I love mixing it up with some Vaseline or lip balm to make it more sheer and plummy. I also have a very dark purple lipliner that I'll pair with it if I want to go for a more goth look.

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  21. Oh wait, I think I have that color! It might be all dry now at the bottom of my makeup bin. MAC is a dangerous place for me, especially the lipsticks. I love the idea of a little lip balm to gloss it up and tone it down. I do that with my super bright reds a lot.

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  22. both dresses are beautiful, but first dress is wonderful! great fabric.

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