32

Hi guys! It's definitely been a hot minute since I've written a blog post! Thought I better put my phone down and dust off the old keyboard before I forgot how!

2017 has been sort of an odd year for me mentally. I feel like my energy is scattered between many creative pursuits - sewing being one of them - and I don't particularly feel like I've been performing any of them well! Not to get too heavy on here, but the politics in the U.S. have really affected me. I've been trying to channel my anxiety and anger into something productive and learning how to become involved in my local politics, where I feel I can be most effective, but I can't pretend that I don't often feel overwhelmed, depressed, and helpless. And those feelings can take their toll.  I'm not writing about this to open up a big political discussion, but simply to explain why I've been pretty quiet on the sewing and blogging front.  Quite simply, I've had other things on my mind!

But this past weekend was my birthday.  I turned 32.  And I had a long weekend to not only finish up some sewing, but take my camera for a walk and document what I've been wanting to wear lately for y'all. Normally I make something a bit frivolous for my birthday sewing, but what I really wanted, and needed, this year was some practical separates. So that's what I got!



Variations on this outfit have been somewhat of a uniform for me, lately.  In fact, I made these jeans last fall and have been wearing them pretty much nonstop. I'm not really sure what I'd call this style. I have no idea if I'm even "in style"! What are the kids wearing these days? I have no clue. At this point I'm just making and wearing whatever feels right.  And this sort-of 70's, kinda ranch-hand, a little bit sexy, but also buttoned up, and maybe a touch prison-uniform, look feels right. Like, I'll probably wear this to work at least two days this week, kind of right.



Like I said, these jeans were made last fall. I actually made them as sort of a palette cleanser after all of my historical sewing.  They are a bit of a mish-mash of the Closet Case Files Ginger jeans pattern and the Deer and Doe Safran pants.  Basically I just put the Safran front welt pocket on the Ginger jeans high waisted pattern.  Then added a flare leg.  However I didn't really measure my inseam correctly and didn't add as much length as I originally would have liked. Generally I like my flare leg jeans to be floor-dusting. That's why I left the hem of these raw, because had I hemmed them they would have really been an awkward length! Now, however, I kinda love the raw hem, and the awkward length feels sort of fresh. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!



The fabric is some Cone Mills s-gene stretch denim that I got with one of the original Ginger jeans kits, and it's so freaking lovely.  I made these jeans suuupppppper tight through the hip and thigh, and that Cone Mills denim just gives and gives and gives, and never gives up! I will never make jeans using another denim. End of discussion. I'm a convert. As I said, I've been wearing these jeans for a few months now, and my typical pattern is to wear them many many many times before washing. And they never get baggy! They just seem to get better with more wear!

The top is the Deer and Doe Mélilot shirt.  I've had my eye on this pattern for awhile, and finally bit the bullet this winter.  I made it in this super lovely light blue tencel denim shirting from Threadbare Fabric.  I adore this fabric! The color, weight and drape makes it feel way more ready-to-wear than the typical chambray fabrics that seem to be available to home sewists.  I have a bit more and I'm debating what else to do with it - I'm wondering if I can squeeze an Archer out of it - because a girl can't have too many denim blue button-up shirts, right? So far this is number three...

I really love this pattern too. I cut the size based on the finished measurements -- which I pretty much always do, because I like to be the master of my own ease -- and I think it makes it a little more feminine.  I feel like oversized, drop sleeve blouses are all the rage right now (maybe? I don't know... like I said, I'm not really sure what's in style, but last time I checked...) and I might make one of those in the future, but for this one I wanted something that I could easily tuck into high waisted pants and skirts and not have a ton of fabric pillowing over the top.  One thing that I always underestimate though when I cut by my finished measurements is that while my bust and waist measurement may work with a smaller size, often times my shoulders don't. This is especially true for Deer and Doe patterns, who I think design for a different shape than me (i.e. not women with weightlifting shoulders and backs!) I think I'm able to get away with it on this top because there's no armsyce, but it's a lesson I really need to learn, because this isn't the first time this has happened!

 

It's been such a warm winter and spring here in Galveston, I pretty much completely skipped any sort of winter sewing and this is probably going to be about as 'transitional' as it gets! The next few projects I have planned are summer dresses, however I should really try to bang out a few more practical separates! Especially tops. 

Does anyone have any good pattern recommendations for tops? I'm feeling very 70's these days (and should probably cut my hair, but, you know, fuck the man). And since I've been sort of out-of-touch I'm not really sure what's out there! Tell me your favorites! What can't you wait to sew and wear this spring/summer?

xx

momma's got a new pair of jeans

What the What?!?! Two posts in one week?!?? No need to check for air born piggies, dear readers, and no, it is not The End of Days.  I'm just getting caught up on a few posts here on the old blog. I've actually been fairly productive behind the scenes this past month or so and am wrapping up multiple projects in fairly quick succession. Nice to breathe some new life into this space!

I was about to title this post "Canadian Tuxedo" but then I stopped myself... why is denim on denim called a Canadian tuxedo? If recollection serves me correct, the implication was that wearing denim on denim was trashy, or redneck-y, neither of which are things I associate with Canadians... All the Canadians I know are chic as hell! So my friends, if you have more insight into this particular slang phrase, please, do enlighten me! 

Regardless, this is my take on the denim on denim look and I think it's pretty darn sharp! This chambray popover was my most recent make for the Mood Sewing Network, however what I'd really like to talk about today is my new jeans.  I thought to spice things up a bit I'd split the sewing talk between both sites, that way I'm not posting the same rigmarole twice. Well... it keeps things interesting for me at least!

So just to give you the quick rundown on the chambray popover - I used chambray from Mood (obviously, duh Sallie) and altered my Grainline Archer pattern to a popover style rather than a full button front shirt.  this was a pretty easy alteration to make, I just cut the front on the fold and then inserted a partial placket.  To read the full details, head on over to the MSN site!

But my jeeeaaannnnzzzz!! Guys, I think this might be my favorite pair of jeans that I've made yet! So many things came together for me for this pair! But let me back up real quick here... This fall I've been pretty focused on fleshing out some fresh wardrobe basics.  Jeans and shirts get worn pretty hard around here, and I feel like I can never have too many.  And what with all the exercising I've been doing I didn't really feel like my old jeans were fitting me quite the same.  They felt very tight through the thigh and bum, and were gape-y at the waist.  The jeans that fit the best were my high-rise white Ginger jeans, which I adore, but sometimes you don't want to wear white jeans! So a classic, dark-denim pair of jeans was quickly rising up my sewing queue.

As much as I love the high-rise version of the Ginger jeans, I really wanted something with a more casual feel.  So I decided to give the low-rise version of the Ginger jeans a try.  Ugh. You guys. I freaking love this pattern. I didn't even make a muslin, and I barely did any fitting. It just works for my body.  I made a straight size 6 with no alterations except to sew the waistband a bit snugger.  I was initially thinking I might peg the ankles a bit because, well, I've been a die hard skinny jean wearer for the past... oh... ten years? And yes, I suppose these would still classify as skinny jeans in the grand scheme of things, but to my swaddled ankles they feel downright bootcut! But after doing a test fit I decided I really liked the silhouette. It seems to work for both dressier occasions and casual ones... or maybe that's just the secret of a good looking pair of jeans?

I would be remiss if I didn't wax poetic about this denim.  This is the Cone Mills s-gene denim that I got in the Ginger jeans sewing kit Heather and Jen were selling after the pattern launch. (fyi - they just did another sale of denim kits about a month ago - supplies go fast so I think they're all sold out now.  I have no idea if they'll be doing it again, but it's worth it to follow them on Instagram if you don't already so you can get the heads up in case they do) You can't really find Cone Mills denim sold by the yard as it's really only available for wholesale, so if you happen across it somewhere, definitely jump on it! I think the "s" in s-gene stands for sorcery. This fabric is... sigh.... ah-mazing. It's soft, and has an amazing amount of give - perfect for comfy, close-fitting jeans that flatter and hug your curves, but it also has incredible recovery, which means that you don't get baggy knees and a saggy butt after wearing your jeans for a day.  Honestly, I wore these jeans for a week straight without washing them (because that's how I do) and every. stinking. day. they looked fresh and crisp. I just can't even. You've probably heard the hype before about this denim, and guys, believe it. It's seriously that good. It's spoiled me. I don't know how I'll ever go back to other denims. I don't want to, that's for sure!  Thank goodness I still have another bit of yardage of the lighter weight denim for me to love on!

One of the most fun things about sewing your own jeans are the myriad of ways you can customize them.  I generally err on the side of classic finishing with my jeans, but I couldn't help getting a bit creative with the topstitiching for this pair.  As you can see I used a standard copper/gold thread for all the topstitching, but then I used red for all my bartacks.  I remember on a recent pair of Lauren's jeans she made a little "L" on the side seam bartack that holds the pocket in place and I thought that was so cute! Since bartacking an "S" would absolutely be beyond my skills I decided to create a bit of a theme with these diagonal red bartacks.  They're used on the back pockets, the coin pocket and the front fly, and again at the base of the side seam topstitching for a little extra flair. The little red touches make me super happy, and the jeans still have that classic look that I like. 

That's it for jeans talk! They've already been in heavy rotation, so that must be a good sign!

Before I head out I'd thought I'd just mention that perhaps you guys have noticed that my photo setting has been the same in the last two posts. That's because I sadly broke my camera lens and am saving up money to replace it.  In the meantime, my boss has been kind enough to let me shoot blog photos with the work camera, but it means I have to keep it at work.  Luckily, my "office" is a pretty lovely setting in itself - including those two little white kitties that are hopping around in my photos! Allow me to introduce you to our work cats - The Ghost and The Darkness (who I'm holding in the picture above).  They're brothers.  If you don't have cats at your work I highly encourage you to bring that up at the next staff meeting. Sure, they may not be great for productivity, but they're a huge morale booster, and they pull their weight in the pest control department too! 

Okay lovelies, until next time!

xx

my gingers

I need to be honest with you, friends, I could probably have filled this post with just pictures of my butt because, seriously, every single photo I took today of my rearview was just killing it!! And while that probably sounds like I have an insanely inflated sense of self when it comes to my booty, I assure you, I don't! IT'S JUST THESE JEANS!! 

So for posterior  I mean, posterity, I've included some front shots too, but I just want you to know it wasn't easy!!! *Sigh* the things I do for you guys...

But anyway, Heeeyyyy! What's new with y'all? Did you have a good Halloween? Is your November getting off to a swinging good start? I got myself into a bit of a blogging rut after posting my last Mood Sewing Network make - I just couldn't muster the mojo to re-write the post over here on my home turf, so if you haven't seen it, let me just direct you on over to the MSN site.  Once I accepted the fact that that post was just not going to get re-posted I felt like I unclogged the drains and could finally move on to sharing some of these other makes that have been sitting around waiting to be blogged about! 

And first on that list are these white Ginger Jeans - the newest pattern from Closet Case Files!

You know, I really love seeing women that I've come to know, and call my friends through the sewing  and blogging community expand, and grow, and take on new ventures, and find success through their passion and hard work.  And no one embodies this more for me than my pal, Heather Lou.  I'm just so proud of her and her burgeoning pattern business! And it's with good reason too - because each new pattern she releases knocks it out of the park.  And I'm not just saying that because I love her (even though I do) but I really believe that each of her patterns possess a little bit of magic that makes me feel like a million bucks every time I put them on.  Case in point: these Ginger Jeans have since been dubbed my 'sexy jeans'.  They may not be perfect, but that rear view is worth the title alone, in my opinion!!

Okay, okay, I know you guys didn't come here to listen to me wax poetic about my tush and my love for Heather, so let me tell you a bit about the actual pants you see before you.  First of all, Heather asked me to test this pattern, and I said 'yes' because I love making jeans, and I love wearing jeans, and I love learning about jeans, and because - duh - she's my girl! (Okay, I'm done, I swear... well maybe not...) So the jeans in this post are my test version.

I used a moderately stretchy, mid-weight denim that I picked up with my Mood allowance.  Funny thing about these jeans - this is actually the wrong side of the denim! The right side of the denim was described on the Mood site as being a 'burnished gold', and of course, me being me, I thought "oooh gold jeans!!!" and clicked 'buy' without a second thought. Then the denim arrived and, much to my dismay, they weren't so much 'gold' in real life as they were a sad, slightly greenish, khaki color. Boo.  (To be fair, had I gotten past the 'gold' descriptor and gone on to read the rest of the color description I might not have been so disappointed) I was all resigned to just make them up as a muslin that never saw the light of day, when I had the sudden brainwave to use the wrong side of the fabric, which is this pretty normal looking white color you see before you. Total save!

I'm no novice to jeans making - in fact these Ginger's will make my sixth pair of handmade jeans.  And I really have to say, it's one of the things I love to make the most.  I just get so much satisfaction out of all the topstitching and details, and I really enjoy knowing that I'm making something that will get a lot of love and wear.  For my test version of the Ginger Jeans pattern I made View B - the high-waisted and skinny leg variation.  I chose this style for two reasons: 1) I love a good high rise for their vintage-y sexy look and 2) My hacked-to-pieces Built By Wendy pattern that I've been using to make my own jeans pretty closely resembles View A and I was looking for something a little different.  I cut a size 6 for these, which is a size smaller than what I've cut in Heather's patterns in the past.  My measurements were a bit all over the place - a 6 in the waist and a 10 in the hips.  I gambled by cutting the 6 and sewing the hips and legs at a 3/8" SA instead of the instructed 5/8".  The resulting fit is very close, but they're still comfy (stretch denim is a beautiful thing)!

I really love the fit of these! I'm sorry, I have to say it again, but I don't know what sort of voodoo magic Heather puts into her patterns because each one makes my bum look ace! I really only ever have this experience with her patterns, so... obviously it's witchcraft.  To be fair, I do have a bit of a camel toe issue with the front rise (I tried to pose in such a way as to minimize it's appearance in these photos - also, isn't 'camel toe' an awful name?) but it's not enough to make me stop wearing them in public. Also, it should be noted that Heather has made a few fit adjustments to the pattern after we testers gave her our feedback. I believe one of the things she changed was to take a little scoop out of the crotch curve on the high-waisted version to solve any potential camel toe issues. Of course, we're all such unique little snowflakes, no one is going to fit any one pattern exactly the same.  I'm sure I'll still have to make little tweaks here and there when I make my next pair of Gingers from the finalized pattern, but... that's sewing!

Some of the little details I added to my jeans were this gold topstitching thread and copper buttons and rivets, all bought from Taylor Tailor.  And maybe my favorite little detail is the hot pink thread I used to sew the buttonhole.  This was something I did on my husband's jeans and I just loved how personalized it made them feel.  See?! There's just so many little ways you can customize your jeans when you make them yourself - it's like a 'Choose Your Own Adventure' sewing experience! 

I also have to say that these are some of the most thorough instructions I've ever come across.  Sewing jeans can be a bit of a process which is probably why so many people are intimidated by them.  Heather really breaks the whole thing down for you with the instructions, I even learned a few new tricks to add to my jeans sewing arsenal! And, of course, she's doing an exhaustive series of posts as part of her sew-along covering just about everything you could ever want to know about making your own jeans. Truly, it's a like a gold mine of jeans sewing information! I've long been an advocate of making your own jeans - it's just so damn empowering - and I love that now there's all the information you could possibly want all in one place.

Let's finish off with one last look at that boot-ay because... I mean... hot damn!

I'm sure I probably sound like a Closet Case Files fan girl in this post, and, well, I am! But I also hope you guys know I wouldn't just rave about something for no good reason - I'm just really pleased with the way my jeans turned out! 

But I guess the real question is whether or not the Ginger Jeans pattern will replace my Tried and True Built By Wendy jeans pattern? You know... they just may! I most definitely need more of these high-waisted beauties in my closet, and if the low rise version gives equally good ass - then who am I to complain! I will say that I was able to get my dirty little mitts on one of the Ginger Jeans denim kits before they sold out, and... yeah. There's gonna be more Gingers in my future.

What about you guys? Anyone else looking to make this handmade jeans thing happen?

xx