1.17.2012

and now...

time for some gratuitous construction shots!


views of the single welt pockets, (invisible) draw stitched collars with pick stitching along the edge, and fell stitched neckline.



so. much. fell stitching! plus little thread bars to hold the back pleat in the lining in place.

i would be a liar if i said this jacket is perfect. its not. not even close. but that doesn't stop me from being pleased as punch with the final outcome! it has plenty of little kinks to it - places where i may have been a bit overzealous with the steam, areas where i fudged my way through the finer details of tailoring, or got so caught up in the details i wasn't seeing their effect on the garment as a whole. does this ever happen to you?

i tell you this now, because it is with some trepidation that i show you these rather intimate images of my jacket, an object that few of you will ever examine in real life. i feel as if i'm laying it bare. exposing all my wonky little stitches - my fumbling with the fabric.

and i remind myself that it's all a process of learning - something i hate! why can't i skip over the learning part and just be an expert already?!? but it doesn't work like that, does it?

i had to laugh a bit when i was reading claire's instructions on how to attach the sleeve lining to the coat lining by hand. She says that because of the excess fullness - the lining should be smooth, but it won't be as neat as a machine stitched lining. She calls this "a true sign of a hand-made garment".

it reminds me of what my husband says when i'm freaking out over some detail thats just not quite right. He says, "honey, thats how you know its handmade"...


xx

16 comments:

  1. But I don't WANT things to look "handmade"-- I want them to look amazing! :) I hear you-- I want to skip right over the learning process and be in a place where every garment-making experience is a success! But I have a feeling you'll be much closer to "expert" after this experience-- all these new couture techniques are in your toolbox now and you can whip them out on your next project! Again, great job!

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    1. Exactly! lol! Glad I'm not the only one. I want people to be like "OMG you MADE that?!?!" not like, "Aaahhh, yes, a puckered lining - such a true testament to a handmade garment...." Blergh!

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  2. Honestly, I don't think most non-sewing people can even see puckered linings... And sewing people will be totally amazed at the sheer amount of handstitching! I know I am. :) At least I'll be, just as soon as I've gotten over how amazing the whole jacket and the combination of fabrics is.

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    1. Thanks Alessa, its true, I'm always my own worst enemy! And why do I feel so embarrassed? I've found that the online sewing community is the most supportive group I've ever come across!

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  3. I know what you mean about wanting to be an expert - I am scared to even attempt a jacket at the moment, the "learning" part seems overwhelming. Your jacket is AMAZING! Thanks for showing the innards!

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    1. Have no fear! Jump in with both feet! Try not to let it take you 2 + months! Obviously a big part of me wants to be an "expert" (or I wouldn't have said it) but then there's the other part (and probably far more accurate part) that says "being an expert is boring..." And truly - its really fun to feel like your just tackling a project - throwing all preciousness aside - and maybe getting a bit dirty along the way :)

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  4. Not being much of a sewer myself, I wasn't sure that I'd have the right reaction to seeing the inner workings of a garment... I thought perhaps I would be all about the final product... which again, is amazing... My art students will all tell you that they need to "shut me up" when I get on a roll about artists who "leave their mark". Nothing excites me more than being able to see the visible process in a final outcome and for this it was no different. While no one would want to sacrifice outcome over production, I actually got goosebumps at witnessing the process. All artists leave a mark and it is something to be celebrated... job well done.

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    1. Thanks Sis! Actually - you can probably relate to this the most, but sometimes when I'm making hand stitches and I'm like, "Why doesn't this look like the example?" I take a step back and am like, you know what this reminds me of? It reminds me of my drawings. Its my damn "hand" popping up again!! How weird that a basically mechanical, repeated motion can hold so much characteristic? Its almost like the entire inside of my jacket is one big note that i left on the kitchen table about spy guys with pie on their tie.... ;)

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    2. I'm a cool spy guy with pie on his tie... so I'm going to fly... to the dry...cleaners.
      A classic!
      I always hated when people discouraged your or any artists "hand"... isn't that the point? It is funny that you said that though. The stitching reminds me of your handwriting if that's possible! xx

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  5. It's magnificent! You've done an amazing job and your jacket looks utterly fabulous! :D Well done on completing all that couture detailing successfully!

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  6. All absolutely wonderful and gorgeous but I LOVE the pick stitching on the collars. You must be so proud of yourself. I love the red and the lining combo, too.

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  7. What a cool thought that one can recognize "the hand" in the microscopic details. One of the hardest things about sewing, imo, is that it's hard to focus on the whole when you're so intimate with the details. This is such a huge accomplishment, though! There's nothing like a big ole complex project to push through that initial learning curve.

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    1. I am so in agreement with you! Sometimes my focus gets so intense on the details - and while they may look great, the garment as a whole may not - so weird! I don't know if this is the case with this jacket - but the details are far more intense than the finished product!

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  8. Since both my daughters tease me about my lack of sewing efforts while they were growing up (I safety pinned their girl scout badges on their banners) I am amazed and fascinated at this daughter's sewing achievements! Huzzah Sallie! It's just beautiful!

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  9. that looks so good, you could almost wear it inside out!
    :-)

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